Day 4 in Bali! I’ve had a few mellow days here after my huge travel day where I managed to catch a nasty airplane cold, which left me sneezing and sweating, feeling weak and tired for the first two days, definitely not the ideal way to start your vacation! Now I finally feel like I’m back on track, surfing every day and trying to get into the surf mode again after a long winter in the snow. In the beginning it’s always so damn frustrating, paddling around for hours, not catching waves, messing up take-offs, and other kook moves when you know you’re much better than that. It’s hard to complain on this amazing island, so I’m going to leave it at that. Having a great time staying at my friend’s at Xtravel’s place Surf Lodge Limasan, just north of the tourist hubs Kuta and Seminyak, close to most of my favorite surf spots and all the good restaurants. I can really recommend it, if you want a relaxing atmosphere and great local knowledge of all the spots.
Leaving a beautiful spring evening Stockholm airport, before a 40 hour door-to-door travel day… I was being cheap and got the budget ticket, but I don’t know if it was worth it as I ended up missing my last flight from Singapore and got to Bali almost two full days after I left. Oh well…
I’ve been coming here for the last 8 years, and I still get butterflies in my stomach while approaching this coastline. All the anticipation built up during the winter, all the waves waiting to be surfed, memories to be made, new faces to meet, sunburns to be created while spending too many hours on the water…it goes on and on. It definitely feels like a second home, and I think I will keep coming back here many many years.
Classic surf spot Airport Right’s, not quite showing its true self, but when it’s on here, it’s one of the best righthanders I know.
This is the face of the excitement I just mentioned. Jet-lagged, caffeine-overdosed, ultra hyped Jacob.
Can’t say I have missed the traffic, however. Can’t have the sweet without the sour…
Motorbike selfie in the rice paddies of Canggu, a few minutes from our house. This is my favorite part of Bali, where the hustle of Kuta hasn’t reached, but there’s still a solid community of surfers, good restaurants and some nightlife. Also some of the best morning surf spots on the island!
Down south is where the “real surf” is. Classic line-up of Uluwatu, looking extra amazing during the Uluwatu Boardrider Challenge that went off this weekend in perfect SSW 8ft swell. Almost worth the 100 dollars entrance fee to share this with 3 others, but I definitely don’t have the paddling arms for these waves just yet.
Just down the beach, the surf spot “Impossibles”, reeling off in the afternoon sun. I took this photo after a 4 hour session in perfect surf with only a handful of friendly guys out, completely exhausted and sunburnt.
Just out front of the cafes, the most picturesque wave in the world (in my opinion), Bingin, showing off some deep barrels for the stoked but heavy crowd. Also one of my favorite waves but I need a few more days before I’m ready for this shallow wave machine.
Back home at the lodge, our housecats Ghostface Killa and King Diamond taking a nap by the pool. So fun having these little friends around, they’re constant entertainment.
This is the newest addition to the family – Rambo, who my buddy Tim saved from the streets a while ago. Turns out he’s a she, so maybe a new name is in order. Any suggestions?
Tomorrow morning I’m off to surf a classic big wave spot on the south part of the island, and the forecast looks promising. I have missed waking up at 5 for early missions, it truly is one of my favorite things in the world! It’s going to be a good warm-up for an upcoming exploring trip to a remote island on wednesday for a couple of weeks. I’ll tell you all more about it when I’m off…it’s going to be good!