¡Hola amigos! Greetings from Mexico. I have been off the blog for a few days, busy doing nothing at all, waiting for something out of the ordinary to happen so I’d have something to blog about. Guess days just come and go here and they’re all mostly the same. Absolutely awesome, that is. So where are we? Well, after flying LAX-IAH-OAX (Los Angeles, Houston, Oaxaca) last wednesday, we caught a small prop plane down to the nearby town of Puerto Escondido, a 35-minute flight from Oaxaca. We’re here because we wanted to go relax somewhere quiet after our giant roadtrip in the US the last couple of weeks, and it just so happens to also be one of the best beachbreaks in the world = Jacob gets to surf. The main beach here picks up any pacific ocean swell energy there is, and grooms and funnels it through its offshore canyons before focusing all its power onto the sandbars right outside of our hotel. Here’s a massive photographic effort of describing our trip here so far:
Camping in an industrial parking lot, Inglewood, West LA. Since our flight to Houston was in the morning we decided to return our camper van the night before, and got permission to sleep in the rental company’s lot. Not the safest or most comfortable area to hang out at night, so we kept it low key.
After a massive travel day into Mexico + getting kicked out of the airport in Oaxaca at 11pm without a hotel reservation, we boarded our Cessna Grand Caravan in the early morning hours, before the mountain winds arrive that make this aircraft type less reliable.
Sofia, slightly nervous before her first Cessna ride.
Before waking up in Oaxaca and getting in the plane, I had no idea how lush and beautiful southern Mexico’s landscape really is. Tropical rainforest covers these massive, mountain canyons for miles in every direction, with rivers cutting through the valleys towards the ocean just out of view. Our 35-minute plane ride turned out to be a very wise decision instead of the 8-hour bus.
Seemingly endless rivers like this one, without any villages, houses or roads in any direction, were seen in every valley.
Good morning selfie!
Apart from us, the plane only held the captain, plus some half dozen upper class Mexican nationals. Flying almost private, over one of the most scenic views I’ve ever seen, on our way to some of the best surf I’ve ever heard of, made this whole scenario very unreal.
8:00 am, and starting to feel like I’m wearing too much cotton. 20 hours after our departure, we were finally in Puerto Escondido!
So here we are then, I thought one hour later when we had checked into our hotel, and slowly, in the oppressive blue-sky heat, made it to the beach. The ocean was still delivering the remainders of the previous mega-swell, and every 5 minutes another perfect double overhead set exploded just off the sand. Exhausted from 3 plane rides, and one very brief, sleepless hotel night in Oaxaca, I chose to observe instead of paddling out. At size, this spot breaks both surfboards and spines.
Another impossibly fast left-hander reeling off towards the inevitable close-out section. I was later told the swell needs to have more of a southernly direction to create better rides here, and when we had arrived it was a little too much west. This proved to be true over the next following days when the swell size went down but went more S, producing more distinct, A-frame style beachbreak peaks. I can’t wait for the next big day if this direction holds.
The day after the size had went down a foot or two and I decided to give it a go on my newly acquired 6’8″ pin tail. It’s hard to describe just have fast your paddling, pop-up, and take-off needs to be on this wave, it’s unlike any Indonesian pointbreak I’ve ever surfed. After a month of fastfood, beer and camping life in the US, I had a tough time getting into some of these pits. Pictured above is one of the ones that got away.
And then I finally made the drop on a set, and I wasn’t fast enough to catch up with the face. Surfing after a long break is one of the most frustrating things in the world. You’re doing something you know you’re good at, but your body just won’t do what you tell it do.
Washed ashore after yet another violent washing machine ride.
Even when you suck at surfing, hanging out at the beach is pretty neat. Especially here, where no matter where you sit down, you’ll have a canine friend coming to hang out with you without expecting anything but your company in return.
A couple of these feels pretty good after those long sessions of eating sand and swallowing saltwater…
In the afternoon the winds slowly turn onshore and turns the surf into junk. Good time to go swim in the waves, the water here is hovering around the 28°C (82F°) mark.
Sofia running into the ocean to cool down. The air temperature is even worse, easily reaching Vegas temps.
The last few days have had small surf, but perfect little waves in the morning with almost no one in the water. You can’t complain about clean little faces like this. Sofia has been getting out of bed early some mornings to join with the 5D, unfortunately none of my best waves have been captured on camera. Typical, right? You’ll just have to take my word for it, I guess
Trying out hacks with a 6’8, kooking it.
I like that it stays dark until 6:45 here, so you don’t have to wake up too early to surf uncrowded waves.
Found a nicely groomed left-hander that reminded me of Bingin in Bali. Should have stalled and gotten deeper on this one though, but still getting used to the board I played it safe.
Those steep backhand drops are tough but when you nail them it just feels so good. Now I just need some bigger waves!
Right now we have suffered some 2-3 days of very small surf but I’m excited for an expected increase in size starting tonight. Hopefully we can go nail some barrel photos!
One more week left on this insane trip, stay tuned for more!