wave
the swell picked up a bit overnight here in west java, and turned the little playful righthander in town into a thick, square barrel. here’s a frameshot sample from this morning, didn’t make it out but it was fun in there while it lasted…
after 3 hours in the water this morning I am pretty much too tired to do anything, eating lunch at the hotel at the moment, with plans to spend the rest of my day in the hammock…we’ll see if we get around to something. going back to bali on monday, big big swell on the way. i’m excited and scared at the same time…
Jacob
surfing




Nice photos, good to see an update too but a well deserved break!
that looks really really really fun. and im really jealous
really cool shot in the header (with the comment)! blog looks awesome with it.