Oskar Lindby: Down & UP
Last couple of skitours. I have been to the Swiss side of the mont blanc massive to see whats going on over there=).
Reading about a few areas and also about a winter room, me and Vee headed there with quite uncertain knowledge about the weather, but I was sure mixed weather conditons would give a few weather windows:)
Weather came in quick and soon it was hard to see anything (typical) =). Using GPS we were able to find the winter room and all we hoped for was that it would clear up for next day!
Waking up next day to snow storm and thick fog, we took it easy in the morning to see if it would clear up. When it looked a litle bit better we went outside. Here up on Pointe du Orny trying to navigate into he North facing couloirs, without luck. Could not see anything on the other side. Photo: Vee
We skied down the SE face of the mountain! It seemed to be better visibility on that side of the glacier.
We headed over to the other side of the glacier and saw the copt couloir of aiguilles dorees which looked to be in good condition! Photo: Vee
Cold deep snow in this N-facing couloir!
White room on the steeps! Photo: Vee
Nice run-out in this line. Not the biggest couloir but still good fun! Photo: Vee
Getting back to the refuge after skiing! Moving in these surroundings on the Swiss side of the massive and exploring new terrain is something I want to do again!
We also did this line from Pointe D orny starting from the road. First part walking to get to the snow limit and from there skinning.
Cold snow after a long time without any snowfall. But a little bit to long approach for one couloir. Starting at 1500m going to 3200+ m. It is on the other hand a good spot for camping and skiing, so will come back for sure!
Vee snowboarding! Tricky snow conditions in the bottom.
Next one up is a Classic line in Chamonix. The Spencer couloir. Starting from Plan D Aiguille you climb up the nantillon glacier and up in the couloir coming down from Aiguille de blatiere.
Not bad! A bit of wind had been on this line the day before but I still tought it was all good!
Ferran came with me and enjoyed the riding! Here coming down the nantillon glacier!
Ferran on the steeper part of Nantillon glacier! Awsome day and nice conditions up here today! One of the more fun lines!
Next one, I met up with Ferran to do the N face of Buet. Long approach with lifts closed, starting from the buet town we walked up the forrest in shoes and later put our skis on. Here Approaching the face Photo: Ferran.
Not much pictures from this trip. Bad weather arrived with snowfall and wind. We decided to hurry down. Fun day with good snow conditions. Hard work and nice coffee when we got back!
Been rainy in town for a while and two days without skiing is two to much, so got really keen to head up skiing more! Waking up at 7 in the morning weather looked bad with rain and fog. I packed everything ready and headed up as soon as webcams looked good up Aiguille du midi and went for glacier Rond! Vee joined aswell and had heaps of fun!
Vee coming down the front face, sadly it slid just before but good grippy snow stayed on the face with a few ice patches at top, it was good conditions we tought!
Exit couloir was good until the bottom so much fun on this line! One of my favorits!
Vee coming down Exit couloir! Lucky to have such a nice day with 25 procent sunshine =). Skiing is not finished yet still alot to do and better conditions now than its been for the whole winter :).
First trip we made was to the Miage basin. We skied down from Aiguille du Midi (Col de entreves) down to Italy. We then headed to the Elisabetha winter room the plan was to check out the lines on Pet Mt Blanc.
The line we ended up doing was the Domenech couloir 5,2 about 900 vertical meters that usually joins up with egle couloir. At this time it was not really posible to ski it from the top of the mountain but the couloir was in great condition!
Good morning! Recieving the sunrise upon the peaks is a nice feeling! Photo: Ben Finlay
Feeling the exposure on the top part before getting into the couloir. Wind has been on this I can see and feel =)
Ben coming down. Soon past the scetchy part.
Now 900m of good couloir skiing this area is my favorite. Lines are really big and it keeps the snow well!
Ben trying out his new board! Awsome conditions!
Pow times! Hard to escape the sluff =)
Soon back again to this area for a few days cant wait! A lot of more runs to do over here!
Photo: Ben Finlay
Next up was this classic line but still one of the best in Argentiere Basin Ne couloir of courtes 800m (5,2).
Deep snow on this face. Hesitating a bit when hitting the black ice 15cm under the snow on the way up but going down was super fun like always for me =)
One of the best conditions I have had this line in thanks @loicthv for picture!
Laurents Ski boot broke but it didnt stop him enjoying the skiing on this face! Thanks for a great day!!
Next trip Me and Vee headed up to the couvercle winter refuge for 3 days to ski different lines, before the winter-room was closed. First we headed to the Angelique Couloir 45-50 600m 5,3 one of the most scenic high walled couloirs I have done!
Steep up high more rocks than usually. Its been a dry winter so happy to be able to ski atleast!
Good slush conditions in this couloir thanks for great Photo: Vee!
Vee snowboarding steep lines after just a few seasons Impressive!
Really nice line! Thanks for Photo: Vee
Just enough filled in to ski it good timing!
Beautiful line a must do if you are interested in steep/backcountry skiing!
Its Always a gully in this line due to heat and rocks falling. Maybe not in early winter when it stays colder. Good thing with the spring is that bootpacking goes easy with the hard snow in the morning and then when the suns warms it up its good to go down =). This day was awsome back to refuge to eat and drink!
Next line have been a goal for us The whymper couloir 5,3. I had never skiied something on Aig verte so after hearing it was in good enough condition we went for it leaving at 6 am with head-torches.
Approaching this mountains when the first rays of sun hits it is special! Photo: Vee
A bit of ski-mountaineering in the lower part before getting into the open couloir!
You really feel the exposure on this line with the big rockband in the bottom. Taking it easy and getting down was priority nr1.
Steep up at top with mixed snow. Got better and better with the sun on it. We dropped in at about 14:30 which was a good call! Photo: Vee
Slush snow. Good not being to early here, took all day to warm up!
Past the tricky part and snow got better nice spring skiing!
Last day we packed up our stuff. Went down the glacier at night and headed up towards Grandes Jorasses to check out The S Couloir of Aiguille du Eboulment. Photo: Vee
Couloir Eboulment photo:camptocamp.com
Nice spring condition!
Cool line in front of Grandes Jorasses just able to reach the top before the bad weather arrived. Actually good conditions in this one. The thin cloud cover didnt make it too soupy so really enjoyed it. Super fun days and cant wait for the next trip. Got some ideas!
After some heavy snowfall it started to fill up well in these mountains! And clear stable weather made it posible to get out in the backcountry!
N couloir of aiguille de Mesure.
Aiguilles rouges is one of my favorite spots! Snow stays good and wind usually stays higher. Its also long run-outs with great terrain. Also there is lines that are steep and technical if you are looking for that.
Here on my way up in N-couloir of Aiguille de Mesure. Narrow line with nice snow! starting from the road at Col du montet, its quite a bit of skinning to get up here also a lot of cool ski terrain =).
Avoiding the sluff is important in this one! After this you finish up down in Col du montet with alot of terrain and couloirs down to the road. Really fun area!
Then it was of to Aiguille du Pouce one of the cooler ski faces in this area sadly not filled in to the top. Ski conditions were still really good anywhere there was snow =).
Here on our way up really good snow conditions!
Awsome terrain where you really can open up. Some exposure at the bottom it is so dont fall where you take off =). We then headed down to Vallorcine quick to be in time at work dont think we made it but its ok!
Next line is from one of the main peaks in the Aiguille rouges area. N face of Aiguille du floria. Really cool terrain on this face and technical and comiting aswell. This face holds the snow well!
Me and Alex on our way up! Snow conditions were good today! Not to much work to get up here starting from flegere. You can get to the bottom of the line in 1 hour then about 2 hours to reach the top depending on conditions.
Getting closer to the top. Photo Alex.
Nice feelings and nice views at the top! The descent was wild with alot of features and steep sections. Will come back here for sure. We later skinned up to the berard valley and down to buet. Great day!
Next day I was of to the W face of the same mountain. After first skiing down the N couloir of Col du floria I traversed around to have a look at this face and it looked good so I went for it =).
Crampoons on and almost at the top mindblowing terrain!
The snow-conditions were not the best and I decided to wait for the sun to warm it up a bit but realised it would take all day, so I skiied down anyway. More technical and more comitting than it would have had to be, but fun to explore new terrain.
Some parts were better! Getting the whole line in good conditions must be awsome!
Next day me and Oliviere headed up to Aiguille du midi to have a look at the lines up there. The ski-route we wanted to do we skipped because of the conditons, So we headed back, looked around and ended up doing a SE couloir that turned out to be really good and fun!
Nice line between some really big granite towers.
Conditions were good and it seems like alot of S facing lines are in good conitions atm, Thats motivating!
Next day me and Vee headed up Argentier basin to see if any SW facing couloirs would be in. We first aimed for he Y couloir but it was quite a lot of traffic on this line, people on their way up and people coming down aswell.
We continued further and found some nice lines with good spring-snow that no one had been into. We ended up doing 2 laps up here!
I love these conditions when skiing down! Not so much haiking up sweating liters of water in a few hours =).
Vee trying her new splitboard.
Amazing day up here and so much to do it just never ends!
This week its been good conditons for a lot of skiing. Mostly clear weather and not to much wind! I meet up with Leo to check out Argeniere Basin to see what was going on. My touring binding had been send away so I had to do something without skinning. Gigord I was thinking but the lack of snow in the couloir made us go to Chevalier instead=) top of Chevalier didnt look nice to ski because of lac of snow. But most of it was good conditions!
Only smaller jumps in this line. Steep take ofs steep landings =)
Awsome day and thanks for the Photos Leo teede!
I was keen to check ot something else down the valley. I meet up with Lucy Veerle and decided to ski the Gypaete couloir at plain joux. Very aestetic line with big limesone walls around it!
This couloir needs more snow, that we noticed. Im hoping for snow like always but down on low altitude wich all these lines are at! I have seen some more lines in the Arve area that is just really cool and different that I really want to do!
Next day we went up to check out some stuff in the Aiguille rouges area. We started of down the classic line of col du belvedere but then right after we climbed up towards the top of Aiguille du belvedere and found a couloir, that was in really good condition!
In this line, nice terrain and sluff managment comes handy. Thanks for photo Vee!
We later saw this area from the bottom. Untouched! Skins on again and up skiing, we got all day and evening today! Here Vee on a nice ridge!
Cool spot with nice snow and it was a while ago it snowed =) Photo Vee
Awsome full day of skinning and skiing and climbing!
Yesterdays skiing we climbed up the Encrenaz to see if we could drop into the backside but ended up to ski down the South face.
Ropes out for a rappe to get down. We then climbed up breche Martin and skied the Ne couloir of Encrenaz.
High exposure skiing down to the anchor point in this couloir.
At the top of the Line. Photo: Vee
Maybe its a bit pushing with the time at 1730 setting up for a 60m rappel with no head lamps. I got to be at work at 1800.
Awsome ski line! one of the better ones in Aiguilles rouges! With a bit of mountaineering involed=)
Now the ski starts to get interesting, but I cant really see so much its getting dark =)
Got worried I had to rappel again but it went all the way. Luckily my friend took my work shift! I owe you man! Really fun day thanks Vee and Anja for joining!
Always wanted to check out this area for a while since seeing pictures of lines and of the mountain area. It seems like one of the best terrain in the valle! We skiied these NE couloirs of bel oiseau.
Reaching the top of the first line got deeper and deeper towards the top. Cool area a little bit more freeride than up on the glaciers. It would be a better place for camping than for doing daytrips. Its a long way of skinning from Finhaut, a village in Switzerland.
On top of the mountain N summit.
Dropping into the first line deep snow at the top and mixed conditions further down.
After that one we hiked a line to the lookers left of the main couloir steeper but a little bit better snow in it.
Long day but always fun to check out new areas! Its always worth the effort!
This week I have spent a few days in the Argentiere Basin. Skinning and skiing lines. Thats been the only way to get into good terrain last weeks! Dry start with no snow for 20 days but still there is lines to ski. Thats all i need!
Me and Steve decided to head up to check this couloir out. Its well protected and it still had good snow in it even 3 weeks since last snowfall. Lifts have been closed so hard work with the skinning from midstation crosssing the glacier then climbing the couloir. It turned out 4 hours was enough to make in from station to the top of the line which is not to bad =). Spending time in the mountains is the best time spent!
Just as filled in as in the spring =)
I then headed up on a solo mission just do anything. I found this line which was bigger. Now with top bin open its a bit easier getting to the glacier =) Nice to be in the sun!
A bit of a roller coaster narrow and really fun!
Further down opens up and gets wider a cool line to stumble upon =).
And today I teamed up with Jesper and Steve to once again ski anything. The only line on the NE face that we could find, that was in Ok condition was this one. Photo Camptocamp
Reaching the top in the sun is a nice feeling. Checking out the line before droping in =)
Jesper droping in! Snow felt better down than when climbing up. Great Line!
Thanks for the day boys! Wishing for more snow right now but as long as its posible just keep skiing its the best idea i can think of!
This summer I have been doing some bouldering in the Chamonix valley. Simple climbing which is all about practicing krux moves (Hard moves) and the gear you need is shoes, chalk and if you want a crashpad that makes it nicer to land on when you eventually fall of, which you should do if you are pushing! =) My brother (Rikard Lindby) followed me for one week shooting pictures from all different sectors. Here in Medonnet located close to Sallanche.
Medonnet is a big area with 3 sectors and all have a lot of boulders. Great place to visit!
Another good thing to bring is a brush to clean of the holds. This will give you that little extra friction which might be all you need to climb to the top! An old tothbrush works fine.
This is the main sector with the classic routes and boulders. Impressive boulders in this forrest!
On the classic arrete climb in Medonnet, crazy route =) All is located in the forrest so Its all shady and nice even in the summer. That makes this place good all year round exept for a snowy winter. But thats the time to ski anyway so =).
Next place we went to is the Bossons boulders. This place is very close to Chamonix and has about 20 boulders, that has everything from 3 to 10 routes on each boulder. They are marked with arrows Yellow=easy, Green=Easy/medium, Blue= medium/hard, Red=hard and Black=very hard.
All these routes can be found in the Chamonix crag topo but for Medonnet you will have to get the Chamonix boulder topo from the book store,
This is also located in the forrest so its always shady in here which is great for climbing.
The Argentiere boulderspot is located close to Grand Montet. Its granite boulders and usually a little bit lower but still tecnical. It has about 15 boulders but new ones appear every season.
Looking in the Chamonix boulder topo to find out what could be the next thing to work on =).
On the 7B problem. Sometimes heel hooking is the only way. Then it helps having more tecnical shoes but its not obliged to have of course.
Its always a puzzle to figure out how to reach the top sometimes you just have to force it a bit harder, sometimes just doing a small difference and sometimes you need to train for a long time or stop eating burgers and pizza =). Thats life with most things.
The next spot is close to Vallorcine and is called col du montet. This is the main boulderspot in Chamonix it has about 15 big boulders with up to 20-30 routes on some of the boulders.
Boulders here are bigger and higher it makes it a little bit comitting climbing to the top falling 4-5 meters down on a small pad seems though but its usually not so bad with a good crew that can help out spoting you (helping you to land in a good position).
On the 7a+ traverse. Col du montet is all in a nice setting with flowers and even animals around. One time an English man climbed to the top of this boulder. He got surprised meeting a mountain goat at the top (Bouquetin). The goat hit him so he fell down 4 meters. We was fine but it was not the nicest recieving at the top of the boulder I guess =).
After climbing Mont blanc we where still keen to do some more high altitude mountainering. This peak is a famous peak located in Switzerland/Italy and supposed to be one of the hardest classics in Europe. We teamed up Me, Anton and Vee and went for it!
Arriving in town. Its a magic feeling seeing the peak and heading for it.
Geting closer to our basecamp. The gear we brought was sleepingbags and air madrasses. We bivuaced about 200m below the refuge.
A bit of confusing seeing where the route went =)
Time to sleep=). This bivuac spot was actually really good but it got really wet and damp during this night so most of us got colder than we wanted.
On the climb up changing between climbing and walking most of the way. Its a very long way up much longer than I had expected looking at the vertical. Route is zig-zaging and route finding is not to underestimate =).
Route finding =)
Before the last 300m we changed to crampons and axe to climb the rest. Here on the top finally after hard work. Awsome feeling reaching the top with Anton and Vee. Everyone made a good effort today! Now getting down and get food was the only thing on our mind for the next 7 hours and taking off our shoes aswell =).
Pictures was taken by Vee
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