Oskar Lindby: Down & UP
After some heavy snowfall it started to fill up well in these mountains! And clear stable weather made it posible to get out in the backcountry!
N couloir of aiguille de Mesure.
Aiguilles rouges is one of my favorite spots! Snow stays good and wind usually stays higher. Its also long run-outs with great terrain. Also there is lines that are steep and technical if you are looking for that.
Here on my way up in N-couloir of Aiguille de Mesure. Narrow line with nice snow! starting from the road at Col du montet, its quite a bit of skinning to get up here also a lot of cool ski terrain =).
Avoiding the sluff is important in this one! After this you finish up down in Col du montet with alot of terrain and couloirs down to the road. Really fun area!
Then it was of to Aiguille du Pouce one of the cooler ski faces in this area sadly not filled in to the top. Ski conditions were still really good anywhere there was snow =).
Here on our way up really good snow conditions!
Awsome terrain where you really can open up. Some exposure at the bottom it is so dont fall where you take off =). We then headed down to Vallorcine quick to be in time at work dont think we made it but its ok!
Next line is from one of the main peaks in the Aiguille rouges area. N face of Aiguille du floria. Really cool terrain on this face and technical and comiting aswell. This face holds the snow well!
Me and Alex on our way up! Snow conditions were good today! Not to much work to get up here starting from flegere. You can get to the bottom of the line in 1 hour then about 2 hours to reach the top depending on conditions.
Getting closer to the top. Photo Alex.
Nice feelings and nice views at the top! The descent was wild with alot of features and steep sections. Will come back here for sure. We later skinned up to the berard valley and down to buet. Great day!
Next day I was of to the W face of the same mountain. After first skiing down the N couloir of Col du floria I traversed around to have a look at this face and it looked good so I went for it =).
Crampoons on and almost at the top mindblowing terrain!
The snow-conditions were not the best and I decided to wait for the sun to warm it up a bit but realised it would take all day, so I skiied down anyway. More technical and more comitting than it would have had to be, but fun to explore new terrain.
Some parts were better! Getting the whole line in good conditions must be awsome!
Next day me and Oliviere headed up to Aiguille du midi to have a look at the lines up there. The ski-route we wanted to do we skipped because of the conditons, So we headed back, looked around and ended up doing a SE couloir that turned out to be really good and fun!
Nice line between some really big granite towers.
Conditions were good and it seems like alot of S facing lines are in good conitions atm, Thats motivating!
Next day me and Vee headed up Argentier basin to see if any SW facing couloirs would be in. We first aimed for he Y couloir but it was quite a lot of traffic on this line, people on their way up and people coming down aswell.
We continued further and found some nice lines with good spring-snow that no one had been into. We ended up doing 2 laps up here!
I love these conditions when skiing down! Not so much haiking up sweating liters of water in a few hours =).
Vee trying her new splitboard.
Amazing day up here and so much to do it just never ends!
This week its been good conditons for a lot of skiing. Mostly clear weather and not to much wind! I meet up with Leo to check out Argeniere Basin to see what was going on. My touring binding had been send away so I had to do something without skinning. Gigord I was thinking but the lack of snow in the couloir made us go to Chevalier instead=) top of Chevalier didnt look nice to ski because of lac of snow. But most of it was good conditions!
Only smaller jumps in this line. Steep take ofs steep landings =)
Awsome day and thanks for the Photos Leo teede!
I was keen to check ot something else down the valley. I meet up with Lucy Veerle and decided to ski the Gypaete couloir at plain joux. Very aestetic line with big limesone walls around it!
This couloir needs more snow, that we noticed. Im hoping for snow like always but down on low altitude wich all these lines are at! I have seen some more lines in the Arve area that is just really cool and different that I really want to do!
Next day we went up to check out some stuff in the Aiguille rouges area. We started of down the classic line of col du belvedere but then right after we climbed up towards the top of Aiguille du belvedere and found a couloir, that was in really good condition!
In this line, nice terrain and sluff managment comes handy. Thanks for photo Vee!
We later saw this area from the bottom. Untouched! Skins on again and up skiing, we got all day and evening today! Here Vee on a nice ridge!
Cool spot with nice snow and it was a while ago it snowed =) Photo Vee
Awsome full day of skinning and skiing and climbing!
Yesterdays skiing we climbed up the Encrenaz to see if we could drop into the backside but ended up to ski down the South face.
Ropes out for a rappe to get down. We then climbed up breche Martin and skied the Ne couloir of Encrenaz.
High exposure skiing down to the anchor point in this couloir.
At the top of the Line. Photo: Vee
Maybe its a bit pushing with the time at 1730 setting up for a 60m rappel with no head lamps. I got to be at work at 1800.
Awsome ski line! one of the better ones in Aiguilles rouges! With a bit of mountaineering involed=)
Now the ski starts to get interesting, but I cant really see so much its getting dark =)
Got worried I had to rappel again but it went all the way. Luckily my friend took my work shift! I owe you man! Really fun day thanks Vee and Anja for joining!
Always wanted to check out this area for a while since seeing pictures of lines and of the mountain area. It seems like one of the best terrain in the valle! We skiied these NE couloirs of bel oiseau.
Reaching the top of the first line got deeper and deeper towards the top. Cool area a little bit more freeride than up on the glaciers. It would be a better place for camping than for doing daytrips. Its a long way of skinning from Finhaut, a village in Switzerland.
On top of the mountain N summit.
Dropping into the first line deep snow at the top and mixed conditions further down.
After that one we hiked a line to the lookers left of the main couloir steeper but a little bit better snow in it.
Long day but always fun to check out new areas! Its always worth the effort!
This week I have spent a few days in the Argentiere Basin. Skinning and skiing lines. Thats been the only way to get into good terrain last weeks! Dry start with no snow for 20 days but still there is lines to ski. Thats all i need!
Me and Steve decided to head up to check this couloir out. Its well protected and it still had good snow in it even 3 weeks since last snowfall. Lifts have been closed so hard work with the skinning from midstation crosssing the glacier then climbing the couloir. It turned out 4 hours was enough to make in from station to the top of the line which is not to bad =). Spending time in the mountains is the best time spent!
Just as filled in as in the spring =)
I then headed up on a solo mission just do anything. I found this line which was bigger. Now with top bin open its a bit easier getting to the glacier =) Nice to be in the sun!
A bit of a roller coaster narrow and really fun!
Further down opens up and gets wider a cool line to stumble upon =).
And today I teamed up with Jesper and Steve to once again ski anything. The only line on the NE face that we could find, that was in Ok condition was this one. Photo Camptocamp
Reaching the top in the sun is a nice feeling. Checking out the line before droping in =)
Jesper droping in! Snow felt better down than when climbing up. Great Line!
Thanks for the day boys! Wishing for more snow right now but as long as its posible just keep skiing its the best idea i can think of!
This summer I have been doing some bouldering in the Chamonix valley. Simple climbing which is all about practicing krux moves (Hard moves) and the gear you need is shoes, chalk and if you want a crashpad that makes it nicer to land on when you eventually fall of, which you should do if you are pushing! =) My brother (Rikard Lindby) followed me for one week shooting pictures from all different sectors. Here in Medonnet located close to Sallanche.
Medonnet is a big area with 3 sectors and all have a lot of boulders. Great place to visit!
Another good thing to bring is a brush to clean of the holds. This will give you that little extra friction which might be all you need to climb to the top! An old tothbrush works fine.
This is the main sector with the classic routes and boulders. Impressive boulders in this forrest!
On the classic arrete climb in Medonnet, crazy route =) All is located in the forrest so Its all shady and nice even in the summer. That makes this place good all year round exept for a snowy winter. But thats the time to ski anyway so =).
Next place we went to is the Bossons boulders. This place is very close to Chamonix and has about 20 boulders, that has everything from 3 to 10 routes on each boulder. They are marked with arrows Yellow=easy, Green=Easy/medium, Blue= medium/hard, Red=hard and Black=very hard.
All these routes can be found in the Chamonix crag topo but for Medonnet you will have to get the Chamonix boulder topo from the book store,
This is also located in the forrest so its always shady in here which is great for climbing.
The Argentiere boulderspot is located close to Grand Montet. Its granite boulders and usually a little bit lower but still tecnical. It has about 15 boulders but new ones appear every season.
Looking in the Chamonix boulder topo to find out what could be the next thing to work on =).
On the 7B problem. Sometimes heel hooking is the only way. Then it helps having more tecnical shoes but its not obliged to have of course.
Its always a puzzle to figure out how to reach the top sometimes you just have to force it a bit harder, sometimes just doing a small difference and sometimes you need to train for a long time or stop eating burgers and pizza =). Thats life with most things.
The next spot is close to Vallorcine and is called col du montet. This is the main boulderspot in Chamonix it has about 15 big boulders with up to 20-30 routes on some of the boulders.
Boulders here are bigger and higher it makes it a little bit comitting climbing to the top falling 4-5 meters down on a small pad seems though but its usually not so bad with a good crew that can help out spoting you (helping you to land in a good position).
On the 7a+ traverse. Col du montet is all in a nice setting with flowers and even animals around. One time an English man climbed to the top of this boulder. He got surprised meeting a mountain goat at the top (Bouquetin). The goat hit him so he fell down 4 meters. We was fine but it was not the nicest recieving at the top of the boulder I guess =).
After climbing Mont blanc we where still keen to do some more high altitude mountainering. This peak is a famous peak located in Switzerland/Italy and supposed to be one of the hardest classics in Europe. We teamed up Me, Anton and Vee and went for it!
Arriving in town. Its a magic feeling seeing the peak and heading for it.
Geting closer to our basecamp. The gear we brought was sleepingbags and air madrasses. We bivuaced about 200m below the refuge.
A bit of confusing seeing where the route went =)
Time to sleep=). This bivuac spot was actually really good but it got really wet and damp during this night so most of us got colder than we wanted.
On the climb up changing between climbing and walking most of the way. Its a very long way up much longer than I had expected looking at the vertical. Route is zig-zaging and route finding is not to underestimate =).
Route finding =)
Before the last 300m we changed to crampons and axe to climb the rest. Here on the top finally after hard work. Awsome feeling reaching the top with Anton and Vee. Everyone made a good effort today! Now getting down and get food was the only thing on our mind for the next 7 hours and taking off our shoes aswell =).
Pictures was taken by Vee
Me Jesse and Mike decided to head up to Aiguille du midi. Bring tents and do some climbing. First day we started of with Eperon des cosmiques, wich is this granite face that is a quite short approuch from the top station. After putting up our camp we went climbing straight away!
Jesse on the first pitch. Climbing 3 people works well if you have half ropes this way you will lead every 3rd pitch and you also have someone to talk to when belaying =).
Next morning we went for a bigger wall starting a bit earlier. Pointe Lachenal and we climbed a mixure of routes at about 6B as hardest.
Mike on a cool crack pitch. Amazing rock on this mountain and super nice weather which makes your day even better.
This trip was super fun and Im looking forward to do more of these trips =)
This summer I got to do the classic ascent of mont blanc alpine way. I had only been up before to ski down and then you are taking a different way up. This time we went from les houches and bivuaced at 3100m only with sleeping bags. We then started at 1am to climb up to Gouter. We then straped on crampoons and went to Dome du Gouter and then continued up to the top.
Getting closer to the top. This is the time where you start to feel the altitude, bite it together and just get up =).
Poto: Anton Thorin
Reaching the top at about 10 am with Anton. Good feeling! But now getting back to Chamonix from standing on 4810m is quite a long way =) blistures and sore knees when getting down but super happy to have made it all the way!
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