psyched!!
so stoked to get in the water today. wasnt expecting much but as we showed up at the beach we saw glassy little 2-3 ft lines rolling in, with pretty much no one on them. only downer is that the water temp over here is freezing this summer, about 58°F (14°C) in the water, so its not much different to back home…
gonna chill in the couch for a few hours now and fight the jetlag. strange weather in the OC for sure, foggy and misty outside. not exactly the southern california summer one is hoping for, but I kind of like it, its warm and humid and you dont need sunscreen.
check back soon!
Jacob
surfing
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